Sunday, August 10, 2008
Some last word...
So for the past few days we have continued traveling to get closer to Jo-burg (Johannesburg for you non-South Africans, ha!). After one more day in Krueger National Park, we traveled to another place Blithe River Canyon—South Africa’s version of the Grand Canyon. It really was beautiful. It didn’t quite measure to the, well, grandness of the Grand Canyon—it was smaller—but beautiful in a different way. The rocks, mountains, and rivers are really different here in South Africa. It’s weird. Bobbi and Nate, both friend from the University of Minnesota Morris, and I rode horses to the top. That’s right! I was on a horse! Although the horses were fun and all, they were quite trained and mine REFUSED to gallop at any cost. It’s a good thing that there were not any snakes around because mine would have pulled a Stacey, haha!
So... side track, Stacey is my friend from Trinidad and Tobago but she studied and lives in New Orleans, and way back when we were in Cape Town, we went on a boat tour to see some seals. Remember the pictures? Anyway, while on the boat Stacey made an unforgettable and hilarious comment, she said that if she were thrown overboard she would just drown because the water was so cold. Ever since then, giving up without a fight is known, to me, as a Stacey.
Back to the present—man this blog is really turning out to be really post-modern—we road horses to the top of the mountain. The view was spectacular, but you’ll have to wait until I get back before you can see it—damn computer/internet problems!
Now, we are in Dullstrom (not sure about spelling), the fly fishing capital of Zuid Afrika (South Africa in Afrikaans). This is where my professor’s, remember Helena?, mother and parts of her family live. Yesterday, we cooked dinner and hung around. Today we have off. Most of the other students are writing essays and journals, which are our only assignments for this trip, and of course, knowing me, I finished them all about 3 days ago, so I have nothing to do. I played hearts for 3 hours yesterday. Today, I will probably just read a book and bug the other busy students. What an interesting way to spend my last full day in South Africa. Tomorrow, our plane leaves at 6:30 from Jo-burg airport. I won’t be back on physical land until like 16 hours later in Atlanta and then 3 hours later I will be in MSP ya’ll (round midday)! My phone WILL be working, so call me—if you know what’s good for you!
So... some of the things I will miss from South Africa
1. Appletizer, an amazing apple flavored drink that is not available in the US... so sad! No worries, I have been drinking it at every meal, so I will be good!
2. Accents, you should hear Nate (introduced above) imitate the Cape accent! It’s awesome.
3. isiXhosa, the language back in Cape Town, informally known as the click language. It is really interesting to turn the TV on and hear people using clicks. I love diversity.
4. Tea time. Yes, they really do have tea time here in South Africa. It was colonized by the British, you know! I mean, how can you beat an extra meal that consist of cookies (although they are called biscuits here) and tea, two of my favorite things.
5. Driving on the other side of the road. This took some time to get used to. I remember almost crapping my pants every time we turned on what I thought was the wrong side of the road. Also, when crossing the road. I almost got run over because I looked to the left first... wrong!
6. The people. Although this is kind of broad and general, I do believe that there is a certain charm and wit of the people here. I honestly have encountered very few moody, fast-paced, angry people here. Except that one lady at the coffee shop way long ago.
7. Road-side vendors. Like in México, South Africa boasts a plethora of road side vendors selling anything from common drinks to trinkets even to cell phone chargers. Actually, cell phones chargers were very common. How convenient would it be if we had these in the US? I mean how cool would it be if you were really really thirsty on your 2 hour bus ride from the suburbs to the city and there was a man or woman selling cool soft drinks to quell your parched esophagus? Pretty cool, eh?
8. The animals. Yesterday, while driving we saw a rhinoceros. Not in the national park or anything, just on the side of the damn road. All we have back in The States are dumb deer. Call me biased but I think a Rhino is way more interesting than skunks, squirrels, or badgers.
9. Minority majority. This may seem like an oxymoron, but hear me out. Black people are the majority here in South Africa, and it’s nice to be in a more diverse community. It really helps break down racial borders and increases exposure.
I am sure that in retrospect I will miss many more things about ZA, but like my Basic Concepts of Literary Studies teacher said, “It’s hard for fish to see water.” I really don’t miss much about the US right now. Just like an ol’ regular gringo (if you don’t know what this means you are one!, aka a white person), I have been making comparisons this whole trip. Although I am afraid to admit it, I have too often started my sentences with the dependent clause: “well, back in the US...” Lame, I know, but it’s a reflex. Part of being human is comparing and contrasting, it’s when we hierarchize things that we get into trouble. Before I go on a long winded academic rant, I will leave you to your thoughts.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Welcome to the wilderness
After leaving the comfort of civilization in Pretoria, we made our way north close to the Zimbabwean and Botswan(i)an border to the desolate Mapungubwe nature reserve. The camp we stayed at was actually in the middle of a nature reserve and was really beautiful and fancy. The natural beauty of the South African Bush is just breathtaking. The camp is surrounded by rocky, bush covered hills that are sprinkled with huge trees, like the ones in the lion king! (lame, I know, but I forgot their actual name). As beautiful as Mapungubwe is, nothing prepared me for the incredible darkness of the night. I was freaking out! You couldn’t see your hand in front of you, and did I mention there are wild animals? Although most of the animals are harmless... wait, I take that back! Mapungubwe has elephants, leopards, snakes. They have black mambas, which can kill you in 90 seconds flat with their poison. The combination of pitch dark nights and prowling predators didn’t make me a happy camper at night. Needless to say, I didn’t got anywhere alone. Thanks Nate for never leaving my side (although I am still angry you scared the crap out of me at Medikwe)!
After spending two glorious days and three scarring night at Mapungubwe, we traveled south to another camping site. Although this site was not in the middle of a game reserve, it might as well have been. Medikwe is an ex-, small farm owned by a sweet old couple that has been converted into a lodge for tourists. If you all thought Mapungubwe was beautiful, this place was... well... even more beautiful. Medikwe is up in the mountains, and although town is only 30 km away and there is a train running through the land, there is NO electricity. That’s right, no electricity. Not to mention that our cabin was a ten-minute walk from the guest house! However, our cabin made up for it. It was built on the side of a rock, literally! Hannes, the co-owner of Medikwe, built a cabin using a huge boulder as one of the main pillars of the house. This place was, as my little bro Balta would say, “Off the chain!”
We spent two days at Medikwe enjoying the scenic views, relaxed conversations, and thorny Sickle Bushes, bushes with toothpick like thorns on every square millimeter—let’s just say they aren’t fun to mess with, right Jake and Muneer? On our second day, there Hannes took most of the group on a long walk to see cave paintings—real, original cave paintings, not the fake crap. The walk was great, but the paintings were amazing. I still can’t grasp the idea that hundreds of years ago a person sat in the same spot were I was taking a snap shot and painted the picture I was admiring. It was completely surreal.
After our days in beautiful Medikwe, we traveled to the world famous Kruger National Park. Kruger Park is amazing. It is a HUGE national park that has an incredibly impressive fauna and flora, including some of the most famous African animals, the cheetah, leopard, lion, hippo, elephant, and the water buffalo. We weren’t in the park for more than 10 minutes when I saw my first non-caged, actually wild, independent elephant. If you all think the elephants at the zoo are cool, you have to see one in real life! After settling in, we went on our own safari. We saw more elephants and plenty of impalas, but the real show started when we saw an entire herd of water buffalos, there were at least like 100, if not 150. It was incredible.
As the days I have left in South Africa diminish to the point where I can count them on my hands, I am beginning to realize how much I have enjoyed my experience here. This country really is a country of stark contrasts. Reading parts of my blog over show me just how diverse and contrastive this country is. Starting in a metropolitan tourist city, traveling to rural desert areas, and ending in a living zoo, this country has shown me a lot, and it has yet to stop surprising me. I have 6 days out of my original 6 weeks left in South Africa, and I can’t wait to experience them. I will be back in the United States on Tuesday of next week. This fact seems as unfathomable as the beauty of this country.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
From "the Coldest" to "the Chido!"
Sutherland was, literally, an out of this world experience! Sutherland is a small town about three hours away from Cape Town in the middle of the Karoo semi-desert, which is arid place with little water and rocks everywhere. Although Sutherland is known for being the coldest place in South Africa, damn it was cold!, it is also a popular tourist destination because it houses the biggest telescope in the southern hemisphere, Southern Africa’s Largest Telescope (SALT). Not only does Sutherland have SALT, but it also has a really impressive conglomeration of other telescopes. Being the VIPs that we are we were able to get a private guided tour of the skies. I have never seen a sky so dark and full of stars; the Milky Way was so clear and the stars so bright—it was insane! Funny story, as we huddled to keep warm (remember, coldest place in SA) someone tried to take a picture, but it was so dark that the flash blinded us all for about 2 minutes—that’s how dark it was! Unfortunately, we weren’t supposed to take pictures, so I don’t have any of the amazing sky. But, to make you even more jealous, we got to see in the telescope! We saw a group of stars 17,000 light-years away, that means that the image I saw is 17,000 light-years away, crazy! We also got to see Jupiter. Not a picture or digital image, but the actual thing. It was an amazing experience I won’t soon forget. Seeing something so big really makes you humble.
After our trip to the coldest and coolest place in the universe (corny!), we made our way to the “bling bling capitol of the world,” Kimberly. If you know anything about diamonds then you have to know about Kimberly. Kimberly is the host town of “The Big Hole,” the biggest man made hole in the world (215 meters deep and 1.7 km wide) which was actually a diamond mine. Although “The Big Hole” is now closed and flooded, in entirety it produced 14,504,566 diamonds, weighing 2,722 Kg. That’s a lot of bling ya’ll. This is also were the De Beers diamond company started, aka the top dog in diamond sales. In the museum we got to see actual diamonds as well as replicas of some of the largest “rocks” in the world. I am not a generally a jewelry or diamond fan, but DAMN these rocks really made my jaw drop. Wholly cow there were some giant diamonds in that place. Funny to think that the first diamond in this place was found by a random kid on the river, which was later given away to by the mother who assumed it was just a simple worthless rock. I bet she felt stupid. Its funny how many things in history occur by chance. One thing I did notice in the museum is that it largely ignored the history of oppression and violence toward the black mine workers. I guess it makes sense that this museum is sponsored by the largest diamond company in the world.
After Sutherland we made our way to our next destination Pretoria, the smaller sister city of the notorious Johannesburg. I would have preferred to stay in “Jo-burg,” but I hear the crime is quite...challenging. Anyway, we will be in Pretoria for the next couple of days (until Thursday to be exact... thanks Darrell). Our first day in Pretoria was quite mellow; we got here at nine, so I went straight to bed after a cold dinner. Our second day, however, was probably one of my favorite days on our trip so far as we visited the Nelson Mandela Foundation (NMF) and the South African Congressional court (both in Cape Town). The NMF is the organization that organizes Madiba’s (Mandela) public life and it is also the place where he has his office! Being in this space really made me like I was getting to know Madiba on a more intimate level because not only was I hanging out where he works and is on a regular basis but I got to see the gifts he gets and the actual journals he wrote. I got to see his hand-writing. This may not seem like a big deal, but for some reason seeing the physical spaces he inhabits makes him seem more real, more intimate.
After visiting the NMF, we made our way to the South African Congressional Court. This court is nothing like I have ever seen. It integrates African history and new world order; it really is a symbol of the way South Africa has healed and reunited after Apartheid. The building itself is inside an old Afrikaner fort in Jo-burg, so even though it is inside a colonially historical space, the building itself is meant to represent the African justice system, which took place under the largest tree of a village. Nothing in this building is taken for granted. The art, the structure itself, even the chairs all mean something, namely equality. For example, there are 11 justices in the court each of which has a distinct cow hide to represent that they are all different but still come within the same herd. The building also doubles as an art Gallery. Right now they are showing some pieces which commemorate Madiba’s 90th birthday. It really is aesthetically and ethically pleasing place. I have never been in a more inviting space.
Our second day in Pretoria was a mixture of joy and astonishment, like a really unexpected surprise. Our day began at the University of South Africa, UNISA, the largest distance learning university in South Africa, and were Madiba gained his education while imprisoned in Robben Island. We learned about the intervention professors at the University are making in disadvantaged schools to increase literacy rates, and afterward we went to two of their schools. The schools themselves were interesting. They weren’t necessarily destitute, but they were also nothing like schools back home. At both schools we were greeted with happiness and excitement gratitude; however in the second school we received a surprisingly large welcome. The school sang song for us and we sand songs for them, including “ain’t no mountain high, ain’t no valley low...,” some of us even danced till exhaustion (Justin?, ha! j/k). I must admit I was really really taken aback by their welcome. As we were in the library we were told that the school was waiting for us and all of sudden I turn a corner and B.A.M. the children are singing and dancing. Although I was weary that they were performing for us I really enjoyed dancing and sing with the children later on. It was really a great experience.
After our trip back to elementary school, haha, we went to the Voortreker Monument. This monument is a HUGE building commemorating the contested history of the Voortrekers, the people that traveled from the eastern and western capes of South Africa into the interior. This monument is crazy. Not only is it huge, but it is really controversial because it is based on a lot of mythology and because it helped created Afrikaner Nationalism. The reason Afrikaner Nationalism is so controversial is because the Afrikaner dominated party, the National Party (NP), was who implemented Apartheid. Apartheid, as I hope you all know, was the government sanctioned physical separation of people on races, which was abolished in the 1990. This system was incredibly harmful to people of non-white races as they were all restricted access to cities, neglected by the government, as well as other forms of oppression. I won’t go on. Although the monument is beautiful, as you can see from the pictures, while walking through it I felt a chill up my spine thinking of the harmful and disastrous events that originated from the same ideology that built it. I am trying to think of a parallel to U.S. history, and although I haven’t found one, imagine a huge monument to the confederate army or a monument to the Nazi government of Germany.
This blog is already incredibly long, but I didn’t want to cut your vicarious experience short; however, I have a couple of words left in me. Driving across this country really has opened my eyes to South Africa. I have left the rich and tourist infested Western Cape to the historic and contested northeastern area of the country. I am not sure how often I will have internet access, but I will update you as much as possible. I have only two more wonderful weeks in this amazing country. I will make them memorable!
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
The Guguletu seven monument is in the Guguletu township outside of
Premesh, one of our professors, in front the entire Guguletu Seven monument
One of the seven granite silhouettes of the Guguletu Seven
The second place we visited is the monument of the Trojan Horse Massacre, which remembers the death of three young men as well as all other victims of a brutal killings spree from the police (government). The monument itself is really interesting because it combines an “actual” or “official” monument with the graffiti in the background that “has always been there.” Another really cool thing about the monument is that if you touch the metal (copper I think?), it leaves an orange residue on your hand so that you can take a part of that with you.
Some of the group in front of the Trojan Horse Massacre Monument
Last, we went to
Entrance to Robben Island Maximum Security Prison
Nelson Mandela's Cell (2 x 2.5 meters big, eek!)
Seeing these monuments and museums brought a foreign sadness to my heart. Although I did not know these people and this is not my country, knowing that this much suffering has occurred and that people have struggled brings me down. Being able to see Nelson Mandela’s cell and the actual pavement were people were killed is a unique experience. I could almost feel the presence of these people as I stood there looking at the actual place they inhabited not too long ago. I am very happy, though, that the people of
Monday, July 21, 2008
Think Pink!
First of all, let me apologize for not putting up a single blog in a week. Sorry, but for the last week things have been pretty mellow, casual, dull, and any other synonym you can think of for boring, so it was difficult to find anything interesting to blog about ... OR ... maybe I was too busy and distracted by all the amazingly cool things I get to do in South Africa and you don’t because you are stuck in the boring old US of A to even think about writing a lame old blog.... OR ... maybe it’s a mixture of both? You know, like hot and cold, i.e. lukewarm. I would go with option C, most things usually are...
So this past Friday, July 18th was a great day, which from this sentence forward will be known as “Pink Friday,” but only because “Rainbow Friday” doesn’t sound as cool! It all began with an interview. As part of our class, we are required to interview a South African person and write up an essay. At first, I was rather unenthusiastic about the idea of having to interview someone because: A. I don’t like to conduct interviews (I am really socially awkward when conversations are forced or expected); B. I didn’t know who to interview (I don’t know anyone here!). However, once we started to go to Lwandle, I began noticing how different people’s attitudes were towards homosexuality in the Townships and in the actual city of
Cape Town is considered, so I have heard, the Gay capital of Africa—not that there is much competition, although I think Cairo is a close second, ha!—and same-sex marriage is legal here--the fourth country in the world to do so, whopdi woop!—so I figured that the society would be relatively open and accepting on this issue, right? WRONG, especially in the townships. This topic is very taboo, but hey, what’s life without some excitement and turmoil. So, via Lunga, the
Details aside, it was a very eye-opening interview; I learned a whole heck of a lot, which I guess is the point...dur! The craziest, okay, okay, the most meaningful, moment was when he told me that my interview made him feel human! He told me (this was outside of the interview, so it’s okay if I say this) that the mere fact that someone was interested in listening to his stories and struggles made him feel like a real human. My heart melted (Cornn-y. I know, right!). I know that this may sound scripted, but it really did happen. Damn, I then realized that this is why I want to be a scholar, and that this is why I need to study the GLBT community. I realized that by writing about my community, I can, in a similar way, give life to its existence, livelihood, and power. I never saw them coming, both the epiphany and the comment.
After my first eye-opening experience at Lwandle, I moved on to my second, which began with dinner promptly at 8:30. I had been in
After our 8:30 dinner, Hayden, a couple of his friends and I made our way to the famous “Pink Corner,” which is a convenient conglomeration of gay clubs and bars all on the same block. Talk about trouble, no? Once again, details aside (come on, I need to keep this blog rated PG!), the night was very very enjoyable, but it is not hard to have a good time with good company, right?
Finally, my appetite to experience what the “Pink Rand” can buy you in
Monday, July 14, 2008
They were cute from far away
At the township we went on a tour, but, keeping in line with my ethics, didn't take pictures. However, that's not all we did. We got to go to a preschool and play with the kids. We had the option to play with them outside, draw inside, or cook. I cooked. Sorry, as much as I love my own family's children, I don't really like them. O well. I took so me pictures of the rest of the gang getting attacked by the kids. They really are . . . excited. They were cute though, but from far away, behind the wall of the kitchen. :)
After the preschool, we went whale watching for Southern Right whales. It was okay; we only saw about 6 whales and none of them came very close to us, so we didn't get a very good deal. LAME. They are actually kind of ugly, since they have these gross barnacles all over their faces, looks like gross cottage cheese STI stuff. One thing I learned about them: they have two blow holes, so when they blow it looks like a "V." Cool WHHIP! Like the children, they were cute from far away.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
My trekk up Table Mountain
Yesterday was a day of excitement, spectacular views, and extreme physical strain. Today is a day of sore legs!
Yesterday was our turn up the mountain, and although Helena, our professor, warned us that it was not just a leisurely stroll up but an arduous walk, over half of the group decided to take the climb, including another professor who is, lets just say, mature. If you’re freaking out thinking you would never do it, it’s okay because it is possible to take a trolley both up and down the mountain instead of hiking, but only the losers do that (ha!).
Me, before I knew how hard this hike would be, a.k.a ignorant!
When started off we said, “oh this isn’t so bad,” but once we got around the bend and started ascending up the gorge we were utterly stunned. The first one of our group was Muneer, my friend from back home in
A view from one of my many places of solace on the hike up
But you guys wouldn’t believe this climb. Damn! The mountain is 1,3500 (around) meters, that’s 3,000 feet. I climbed that! eek. First, it starts off as foot hills then a long horizontal stretch, and then: Oh. My. God! Once you leave the horizontal stretch that follows the foot hills you begin to ascend the gorge. You have to hike along a narrow, sometimes disappearing trail that is only inches (inches!) from hundred meter vertical drops and traverse huge(!) vertical ascensions in freezing temperature, all the while being keenly aware of (potentially) poisonous snakes waiting to attack any meandering tourist. To make it worse, it was slippery. It has been raining a lot in
Once I got to the top, I was so ecstatic, not only because the damn hike was over, but also at the fact that I had done it! I was now at the top of
Me, basking in my own awesomeness for finishing the climb
.. oh yeah, the view was cool too!
View from the top of Table Mountain
My friend Nate snapping a shot
There were views all the way up and down the mountain. Everywhere you stopped for a rest you stumbled upon a breathtaking expanse of natural beauty; it really was incredible. Enjoy the pictures, and remember if you find yourself in